awesome tanzanian safari

We’ve never seen so many big cats. More than 50 lions, cheetahs, and leopards over 6 days. Not to mention scores of elephants, Cape buffalo, and giraffes, and hundreds, probably thousands, of zebra, gazelles, and wildebeests. Oh, and while we’re at it, throw in some jackals, hyenas, scrub hares, mongooses, and countless species of weird and wonderful birds. The Tanzanian “northern circuit” has a lot to offer, and is no poor cousin to Kenya or South Africa when it comes to wildlife viewing.

We were so lucky to have an excellent driver/guide for our Tanzanian safari. Elisante with African Savannah Trekkers took us deep inside Tarangire National Park, along the rim and down across the floor of the massive caldera (crater) within the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, out into the vastness of the Serengeti, and over to Manyara Lake National Park to see thousands of flamingos feeding in the lake.

It was very hot and dry, animals were often gathered near rivers and waterholes — with any luck the heavy rains will start in a few days. March and April is a short but important rainy season here. Farmers around Arusha, our launching point, have tilled the soil and are waiting to plant corn and other crops as soon as the rain starts. In the meantime, on safari with the roof up for viewing means within minutes everything inside is covered in a layer of red dust and it is all you can taste. But we so enjoyed the 360 degree view!

Sometimes we would travel for an hour or two across the savannah along dirt tracks, dry grass and solitary trees as far as one could see — and then suddenly, under one of those lone trees would be gathered a family of cheetahs or a pride of lions (including one group of 18 lions and sleeping in the shade except for the rebel sitting in the tree!). Less frequently, someone will have spotted a leopard sleeping in a live or fallen tree, and soon other safari trucks would gather around, everyone hoping the leopard would get up and walk over. Eli was very patient with us; we hung out even after everyone else had given up on one leopard in particular, and sure enough, she stood up, stretched, and walked away for us.

One day out in the Serengeti we came across others watching three young cheetahs resting and playing under a tree not far from the road. In fact there were at least a dozen trucks lined up, but Eli pulled up so that we would have a very clear view of the family; the mom was resting on the other side of the tree. Two of the cheetahs wandered into the middle of all the trucks, but then one seemed to be watching something behind us all. We swung around to see a jackal running parallel to the road and before we knew it the cheetah was dashing up the road ahead of us. We then realized they were chasing a young gazelle and soon all three young cheetahs had joined the chase. Eli quickly repositioned the truck to give us a front row view of the brave little gazelle running back and forth across the road as the cheetahs played cat and mouse with it. Unfortunately, all this commotion attracted the attention of a passing hyena, who dashed past the cheetahs, grabbed the gazelle, and trotted off with lunch.

It was amazing to witness extended families of elephants grazing and drinking water from the river, and so much fun to watch baby elephants playing with each other in the mud. It was awesome to see hundreds and thousands of zebra, gazelles, and wildebeests watching out for each other scattered across the landscape (although we were told the zebras are quite smart, and during migration let the wildebeests cross crocodile-infested waters first!). And so many flamingos!

Save up your shekels and plan now to go on safari in Tanzania, you’ll be glad you did!

wide sandy beaches washed by warm ocean water

If you grew up in the 1960s, Zanzibar was in the realm of the mysterious, exotic, and far away. Various books and movies (perfect example: “Road to Zanzibar”) played with the island’s historic role as a centre for the Arab slave trade and as a major source of spices for Europeans. In fact the “spice islands” were once the world’s main source of clove, but they also now grow and export lemongrass, nutmeg, cinnamon, turmeric, vanilla, chili, and black pepper. Some of our favourites!

But even with all this spice production, it is tourism that is beginning to bring in more foreign currency— people from around the world attracted to soft sandy beaches washed by the warm Indian Ocean, and in some places, enough wind to attract serious kite surfers.

We started with two weeks in Nungwi at the northern end of Zanzibar, in a small beach bungalow just 50 paces from the beach. Breakfast was in a open-air dining area facing the beach and we had exclusive use of beach lounge chairs out on the beach itself. Breakfast featured a huge plate of fresh island fruit and eggs any style – a good start to the day. It was interesting that the bungalows and hotels in Nungwi have attracted Czech and Russian tourists in a big way — we hardly heard any English spoken except when our fellow visitors ordered drinks or meals. Nearby, there are some resorts that cater exclusively to Italians, who were apparently the first to invest in this part of the island.

“Beach boys” as they are called, come by every few minutes offering deals on snorkelling, fishing trips, spice tours, and more, or selling crafts they claim they carved themselves. And then there are the “Maasai boys” from the northern region of Tanzania, dressed in red tartan cloth and carrying sticks or clubs, posing for photos and sometimes selling crafts they also claim to have made. Lastly, women regularly come by offering massages — seems unnecessary when you’re relaxing in the sun and have forgotten all about work and other stresses.

We did head out on a large traditional wooden dhow, although the Yamaha outboard that supplemented the traditional triangle sail would obviously be a 20th century addition! The goal was to snorkel around the Mnemba atoll — we saw lots of small colourful fish and some unusual starfishes, but we’d probably have to be much further out, or join the divers to see more.

Next stop for two weeks was another beach bungalow, this time down the southeast coast near the old fishing village of Jambiani. Once again, our accommodation was 50 paces from the beach, and included breakfast: a plate of fresh fruit, eggs any style, and toast or pancakes. And right out front, beach lounge chairs. The beach here receives much more seaweed than in the north, but staff rake the area out front while locals collect seaweed along the beach — some of it is dried for export but we learned that one type is used in the local manufacture of soap.

A national park just north of here is a refuge for the endangered Red Colobus monkey, found only on Zanzibar — but we were lucky that a family regularly visited our area — once coming down from the trees just long enough for me to get a clear shot of the otherwise energetic baby in the group (below).

A family member begged us to try The Rock, a famous restaurant built on a big chunk of rock that sits out in a small bay a few km north of here (photo above); at high tide you are rowed out. We were able to walk to the front steps and take our seats with a view out to the Indian Ocean. Excellent food and wine, but our favourite dish was the “zanzibar-spiced” vanilla ice cream. Real vanilla. Cumin. Yum, the best ice cream we have ever tasted!

We spent our last couple of days on Zanzibar in Stone Town, briefly a Portuguese mission before the Sultan of Oman decided he wanted Zanzibar for himself. Successive sultans built first a fort then a palace, all from which to control the trade in cloves and other spices, and profit from human misery. Sadly Zanzibar was the last territory under British influence to abolish the slave trade. And although the sultan’s so-called House of Wonders was the first building in Zanzibar to feature electric lights and the first in East Africa to have an elevator, it is now in such a state of disrepair visitors are no longer allowed inside. The Sultanate of Oman is apparently funding the restoration of this building, still the tallest building in Zanzibar. It would be great if the restoration work didn’t stop there — although we enjoyed wandering the ancient alleys of Stone Town, the whole place is one of the dirtiest and most decrepit historic neighbourhoods we have ever visited.

Oh by the way, Farrokh Bulsara was born here. You may know him better as Freddie Mercury, former lead singer for Queen (now deceased). We dropped by the building his family supposedly lived in — there is some debate as to whether this is the right place or not, but a sign and short description of his life is posted by the front door

search for the big 5

In South Africa: Addo Elephant National Park, Kruger National Park, and Balule Private Reserve. In Botswana: Chobe National Park. All absolutely amazing!

In Addo, an hour from Port Elizabeth on the east coast, our first encounter with an elephant was awe inspiring. Our driver, Peter, followed the lone elephant to the watering hole. We watched as this very thirsty elephant drank non stop for more than five minutes.

We drove along the road, following, until he got pissed off at a Warthog that had been running around him. The massive elephant swished him off with his long trunk. He then stopped five metres ahead of us, turned, and gave us the evil eye. He started rolling his head back and forth, while continuing to stare menacingly at us… we realized he was getting very angry and might charge. Peter was about to back up when the elephant suddenly changed direction, urinated, dropped a large amount of dung and with what we imagine was a look of disdain, walked away. Needless to say, we didn’t follow him.

In Kruger National Park, we joyfully spotted four of the Big 5 on our first day out. We observed Elephants, White Rhino, Lions and a Leopard in their natural habitat, from the safety of our 4-wheel drive. We all took turns sitting on the much loved bouncy seats on the third tier in our canvas covered Land Rover. The second morning we spotted a magnificent male lion on a rock overlooking a field of Impala (small, but pretty antelope). The fifth of the Big 5 was a fabulous sighting! A herd of Cape Buffalo crossed the road right in front of us. They are very dangerous creatures, so William, our driver/guide, turned off the 4×4 and we all watched in silence.

There is a huge difference between professional guides (like ours) and the tourists who drive independently through Kruger. One such tourist started honking his car horn at the Cape Buffalo as he seemed to want them to get out of the way, so he could travel on. When there was a small gap between the buffalo, the car sped through. He was fortunate the animals did not attack him. We saw quite a bit of poor tourist behaviour in the park. Shame on them!

Our next safari stop was at the wonderful Naledi Enkoveni (star of the river) Lodge within the Balule Private Reserve. Again, an experienced guide, this time in an uncovered 3 tiered Land Cruiser. The first day there was an exciting afternoon jaunt; Don and I noticed clouds were gathering a long way off to the west.

We were in the upper back of the 4×4 and man did we have to pay attention. We were off-roading to the extreme and had to constantly watch that we were not impaled by tree branches, going ahead and in reverse. Quite the experience!!!!

Our driver spotted a 9-month old lion cub in the bushes, no mom around that we could see. We followed it for a bit at a distance, the cub was trying to hide under bushes from the lightning and thunder that had just started… and then the rains came.

WIth the rain pouring down on us, lightning flashing, and thunder crashing, our driver tried to get us home before worse things could happen. He told us that a few weeks past, they had hail the size of baseballs in the region. Even though we were huddled under the blankets, one of our fellow travellers spotted a male Black Rhino about 10 metres in the bush. We stopped and stared in awe.

Even though the rain was pelting us, lightning was so close we could smell the air burning, and the thunder was booming — we had to stay put. There is an anti-poaching protocol within the safari groups, that if you spot a rhino you stay there until another Jeep arrives. Well, we stayed and stayed and were totally drenched and finally another group arrived. Off we went immediately and when we pulled up to our lodge we were greeted with a shot of Sherry. It tasted fabulous and warmed us up quickly.

The next morning we went out again before breakfast, this time in the sunshine and we spotted and enjoyed watching a Black Rhino mother and her baby walking through the bush!!! It was amazing!

Our last safari, for this blog, was in Chobe National Park in Botswana. We stayed in Jollyboys Hostel in Livingstone, Zambia. Not only did we see Victoria Falls from the Zambia side, we walked into Zimbabwe to see the Falls from that side as well.

Our day long trip into Chobe started with being picked up from our hostel for the hour drive along the Zambezi River, a short 10 minute boat ride across to Zimbabwe, walking 20 metres to cross the Botswana border, and then a 45 minute drive to Chobe National Park. Our morning was spent with four other tourists on a small motorized boat that got us very close to the animals. Maybe too close! As we travelled up the Chobe River we saw hippopotamus in the water, a few over here, a few over there. Suddenly there was movement in the water underneath and our guide swiftly scooted the boat ahead — a hippo was trying to topple us over!

We were also able to get really close to the elephants and watch them mud bathe and swim cross the river in front of us… fabulous! According to our guide, the elephants were gathered in such large numbers because the rains hadn’t come yet (though it was the rainy season) and the Chobe River was the only source of water for miles around. If it had rained, the elephants would have been in other parts of the national park and we wouldn’t have seen so many along one stretch of river.

That afternoon we hopped onto a 4×4 for a land safari. Chobe is the perfect setting for the numerous giraffes, zebras and hundreds of elephants we saw. Our guide told us the zebras hadn’t been spotted for weeks… he said we were very lucky and we felt we definitely were.

We also spotted a lion resting under a tree very close by and we stopped to look and take photos. The most amazing feeling came over me when the lion and I locked eyes. It was me who broke away first… though I am sure it had been at least a 30 second stare!

I feel so fortunate to have had these wildlife experiences and many more, too many to contain in one blog post (our 100th by the way).

So, until next time my dear family, friends and fellow travellers, much happiness to you all!

Deborah

escape to the west coast

“Why are you coming to Darling?” It’s not often that an Airbnb host asks why you’re heading their way, but Darling is a small rural town about 100 km north of Cape Town. It has been a farming community for 150 years and currently features a major dairy processing plant, huge cattle ranches, and several vineyards and small wineries. And oh, it’s also the home of the annual Darling Beer Festival, hosted by the town’s very own Darling craft brewery.

After six weeks in the most cosmopolitan city in South Africa, we wanted to see a bit of the countryside for Christmas. It just happened that the Darling Beer Festival fit nicely into our itinerary, to be followed by two days at a small game lodge and then a week near the beach.

The beer festival took place outside the brewery, in an industrial area that fills in the space between the original town of Darling, and the township that was created when all non-whites were removed from Darling during Apartheid. We’re happy to see that a festival like this is open to all, although we are certainly aware that significant socio-economic barriers remain for a large portion of the black population of South Africa.

Fun fact: Darling was named for the British governor of the Cape Colony, a man named Charles Henry Darling. He was born in Nova Scotia, and later he was the governor for Newfoundland and Jamaica.

After a day sampling yummy craft beer, we spent a day wandering this tiny town, having an early dinner at the only cafe that was open, and taking in a show presented by the town’s most famous (maybe only) celebrity, Tannie Evita (aka Pieter-Dirk Uys), an Afrikaner performance artist who during Apartheid challenged both racial discrimination and gender norms with shows that were banned in South Africa but well received around the world. Photos in the lobby show her rubbing shoulders with various political leaders and celebrities including Andy Warhol and Nelson Mandela.

The Thali Thali game lodge was our first experience going on a game drive. It’s a former cattle ranch that has been transformed into a private game reserve and they host a small number of visitors at a time in tents and former labourer cabins. We were booked into one of the tents, but as dinner approached, gale force winds came up that caused the tent to flap so wildly we had to be moved into a labourer’s cabin. The drives were a lot of fun, we saw giraffes, zebras, wildebeests, antelopes and more in the semi-wild for the first time. A good practice run for the big game drives we were heading for in the new year.

Our last stop on the west coast was Langebaan, located in a bay that also features a naval base, a shipping port (mostly coal and iron ore heading for China), and a national park. Consistent high winds in the bay also draw kite surfers from across the country. We were there for the wide and soft sandy beaches, but we also walked into the West Coast National Park and followed a 5km trail to the highest peak in the park for an awesome 360 degree view of the bay and surrounding countryside (the photo above shows the bay and beyond a peninsula, the Atlantic Ocean).

Our accommodation in Langebaan was a B&B, which meant at breakfast we chatted with other travellers, including a man and his adult son from Johannesburg who we ended up also sharing some beers with as well as dinner on Christmas Day down by the beach. We got along so well they agreed to give us a ride most of the way back to Cape Town just for something interesting to do that day!

enjoying our feathered friends

From a small wetland area in the park across the street, to numerous beaches, mountains, and nature reserves, Cape Town has a lot to offer nature lovers. That would be us!

Table Mountain is the iconic background in almost every photo you see of Cape Town — it’s tall, wide and has a remarkably flat top. The prevailing wind comes from behind the mountain, and when the weather conditions are right, the misty cloud cover looks like a table cloth draped across the flat top. Fortunately, the city has enforced a limit on development up the slope facing the city except for the lower cable car station. By the way, we’ve reached the top of many mountains over the years, this is the first cable car we’ve been in with a floor that rotates 360 degrees in the time it takes to reach the top, giving everyone a view in every direction. Very cool.

Table Mountain is also the name of the national park that includes the big chunk of rock watching over the city, as well as a series of mountain peaks that stretch down to the Cape of Good Hope (the most southwesterly point of continental Africa). The Cape was once more infamously known as the Cape of Storms and the underwater home to hundreds of ship wrecks.

One of the most popular attractions is not far from here — Boulder’s Beach is home to a unique colony of African Penguins. South Africa National Parks has constructed a raised boardwalk that winds through the large boulders that give the beach its name and offer penguins shelter from the wind. They were moulting and preparing nests when we visited, so most were just hanging out on the beach. They can’t swim or eat for about three weeks while they’re moulting and many looked rather ragged and lethargic — but the walkway allowed us to get really close to the penguins without getting in their way or otherwise interfering with their daily lives (if you don’t count being watched by a steady stream of strangers for several hours every day!).

Cape Town is a sprawling city of over 4 million people but it also includes dozens of small and large nature reserves. We caught the city bus to one such nature reserve about 30 minutes from the downtown core. We walked through the open gate, past a small lake for sail boats and boarding, and into the bird sanctuary. A raised boardwalk lead us to a blind overlooking the wetlands.

And there they were, mostly at the other end of the reserve, hundreds of Lesser Flamingos. They are smaller and looked more pale than the flamingos we saw in South America, with very different colouring around the eyes. A few came our way so we could have a closer look, but in the meantime, numerous other birds flew by or perched on bushes near the blind: white pelicans, a great white egret, Pied Avocats, a Pintailed Whydah, a Southern Red Bishop, and yellow warblers.

Of course, one of our favourite ways to enjoy nature is to soak up the sun on a sandy beach with waves crashing in the background. We visited several beaches in the Cape Town area, but our favourite was Camp’s Bay, a 30-minute bus ride to the Atlantic Seaboard. Sun, sand, waves, but on some days gale-force winds blew the sand so hard it felt we were being attacked by bees! Fortunately there was a grassy area we could retreat to, so no need to abandon the beach altogether. We ventured into the water, but this is the Atlantic Ocean. Refreshing, especially when the air temperatures reaches 39 degrees, but brrrrr!

architects of apartheid learned from canada

In many ways, Cape Town reminds us of our home town of Vancouver. Both are port cities surrounded by mountains. Both are bustling metropolises with art galleries, museums and an aquarium, beaches and parks, bars and restaurants, and an uncomfortable history when it comes to the relationship between the white settler community and pre-existing non-white communities.

Vancouver is essentially too young to have been implicated in colonial slavery, but our treatment of Indigenous peoples and later, non-white immigrants, is nothing to be proud of. In fact, between 1948 and 1962, numerous South African government officials visited Canada to study the Indian Reservation system. What they learned helped them design and implement the racist measures that would collectively become known as Apartheid.

Eventually as a result of tremendous domestic courage and international pressure, Apartheid came to an end, essentially starting with the release from prison of Nelson Mandela who in 1994 became the first democratically elected president of South Africa.

His image is everywhere in Cape Town and the ideas he expressed about truth and reconciliation continue to resonant these 23+ years later.

We joined a free walking tour entitled From Apartheid to Freedom and our guide described some of the laws put in place starting in the 1950s that separated whites from non-whites in every aspect of daily life. For example, the Group Areas Act allowed authorities to designate residential areas for whites only, and this led to non-whites being removed from mixed neighbourhoods in the larger cities, and entirely from small cities. One neighbourhood alone in Cape Town, District 6, was emptied of 60,000 people and their homes and shops bulldozed flat.

Much of District 6 was never redeveloped and there is now a battle underway as people struggle to reclaim lost land but are facing commercial developers who want to build condos and shopping malls.

Our walk paused at the high court building, where Apartheid laws were enforced, and city hall, where Mandela spoke to hundreds of thousands of people on the day he was released from prison, and then again three years later when he was elected president. Excellent walking tour!

A few days later we caught the ferry over to Robben Island for a tour of the prison where Mandela and hundreds of other political prisoners were kept for so many years. They were forced to break rock and help build a larger prison to accommodate the growing number of people jailed for resisting Apartheid.

It was fascinating to be shown around the prison grounds by a former ANC prisoner. He was able to point to where his bunk was located, and show us the cell that was Mandela’s home for much of the 23 years he spent behind bars (photo above). He also showed us the garden area where Mandela hid the notes that he later used to write Long Walk to Freedom.

Photos below from Robben Island and the District 6 museum.

Mandala’s cell block

island hopping and walled cities

As we travel, we usually have some sense of what we expect to see and do in the next city or region we’re heading for. But with Crete and then Rhodes, we were just hoping to soak up some Greek island sun and maybe walk some trails. Little did we know that we would end up hiking down a 16 km gorge, wandering through ancient Minoan ruins and buildings built by an order of Knights, and spending time in not one, but two walled cities.

The Samaria Gorge is promoted as the longest gorge hike in Europe. It begins 1230m above sea level, and after 5-1/2 hours of negotiating steep rocky steps and loose gravel trails, hiking along dry creek beds and hopping on stones to cross streams, we made it down to sea level. We’ve done a few 8 to 10 km walks and hikes over the years, so this is a “personal best” when it comes to completing a very challenging hike. We also spotted several wild Kri Kri, a goat-like animal, although the photo above is a tame one that hangs out at one of the rest stations. Confession: we did need the next 24 hours to recover!

Crete has changed hands many times, but there is an enduring mystery around what happened to the once formidable Minoan empire, based on Crete and for centuries very much in control of trade throughout the region. Sometime after 1300 BC, the Minoans simply disappeared. Some historians suggest the collapse of the Minoan empire was the result of a major volcanic eruption and/or tsunami that destroyed their fleet and therefore means of maintaining their rule — others suggest infighting left them vulnerable to attack.

We visited the sites of two massive Minoan palace complexes. Phaistos is a set of hilltop ruins overlooking the Libyan Sea that were excavated and left as they were found, while Knossos was partially “restored” in the 1930’s by an archeologist who had a vivid imagination — signs describe where his ideas (and construction methods) conflict with current understandings of how the buildings were used and by whom.

We also spent a few days just outside the original part of Hereklion, fortified by the Venetians when they took control of the city in 1204. Most of the wall is intact, along with a small fort that protected the harbour. But other than some very old buildings, the oldest part of the city is not unlike the newer parts with trendy restaurants, flashy chain stores and overstocked souvenir shops.

Time to hop islands! Our ferry to Rhodes left at 6 pm and arrived at 2 am — fortunately our host was willing to pick us up at the terminal and make sure we were safely checked in, just inside the walls. In this case, it was an order of knights who built the walls and many of the surviving buildings inside. Rhodes is a remarkably well-preserved (and restored) medieval city. Indeed, there is an area of restaurants and souvenir shops that fills with tourists when there is a cruise ship in port for the day. But not many venture into the massive hospital built by the knights, walk by the inns they stayed in, or tour the very impressive Palace of the Grand Master.

Recalling our time in the Split and Dubrovnik and their “roles” in Game of Thrones, the new Star Wars, and other films, we asked an attendant if any television series or films were ever shot here, but her answer was no. That’s almost too bad. If you ignore the modern lighting and signage, you can easily drift back 600 years and imagine encountering some Knights of St. John, or the Grand Master himself.