search for the big 5

In South Africa: Addo Elephant National Park, Kruger National Park, and Balule Private Reserve. In Botswana: Chobe National Park. All absolutely amazing!

In Addo, an hour from Port Elizabeth on the east coast, our first encounter with an elephant was awe inspiring. Our driver, Peter, followed the lone elephant to the watering hole. We watched as this very thirsty elephant drank non stop for more than five minutes.

We drove along the road, following, until he got pissed off at a Warthog that had been running around him. The massive elephant swished him off with his long trunk. He then stopped five metres ahead of us, turned, and gave us the evil eye. He started rolling his head back and forth, while continuing to stare menacingly at us… we realized he was getting very angry and might charge. Peter was about to back up when the elephant suddenly changed direction, urinated, dropped a large amount of dung and with what we imagine was a look of disdain, walked away. Needless to say, we didn’t follow him.

In Kruger National Park, we joyfully spotted four of the Big 5 on our first day out. We observed Elephants, White Rhino, Lions and a Leopard in their natural habitat, from the safety of our 4-wheel drive. We all took turns sitting on the much loved bouncy seats on the third tier in our canvas covered Land Rover. The second morning we spotted a magnificent male lion on a rock overlooking a field of Impala (small, but pretty antelope). The fifth of the Big 5 was a fabulous sighting! A herd of Cape Buffalo crossed the road right in front of us. They are very dangerous creatures, so William, our driver/guide, turned off the 4×4 and we all watched in silence.

There is a huge difference between professional guides (like ours) and the tourists who drive independently through Kruger. One such tourist started honking his car horn at the Cape Buffalo as he seemed to want them to get out of the way, so he could travel on. When there was a small gap between the buffalo, the car sped through. He was fortunate the animals did not attack him. We saw quite a bit of poor tourist behaviour in the park. Shame on them!

Our next safari stop was at the wonderful Naledi Enkoveni (star of the river) Lodge within the Balule Private Reserve. Again, an experienced guide, this time in an uncovered 3 tiered Land Cruiser. The first day there was an exciting afternoon jaunt; Don and I noticed clouds were gathering a long way off to the west.

We were in the upper back of the 4×4 and man did we have to pay attention. We were off-roading to the extreme and had to constantly watch that we were not impaled by tree branches, going ahead and in reverse. Quite the experience!!!!

Our driver spotted a 9-month old lion cub in the bushes, no mom around that we could see. We followed it for a bit at a distance, the cub was trying to hide under bushes from the lightning and thunder that had just started… and then the rains came.

WIth the rain pouring down on us, lightning flashing, and thunder crashing, our driver tried to get us home before worse things could happen. He told us that a few weeks past, they had hail the size of baseballs in the region. Even though we were huddled under the blankets, one of our fellow travellers spotted a male Black Rhino about 10 metres in the bush. We stopped and stared in awe.

Even though the rain was pelting us, lightning was so close we could smell the air burning, and the thunder was booming — we had to stay put. There is an anti-poaching protocol within the safari groups, that if you spot a rhino you stay there until another Jeep arrives. Well, we stayed and stayed and were totally drenched and finally another group arrived. Off we went immediately and when we pulled up to our lodge we were greeted with a shot of Sherry. It tasted fabulous and warmed us up quickly.

The next morning we went out again before breakfast, this time in the sunshine and we spotted and enjoyed watching a Black Rhino mother and her baby walking through the bush!!! It was amazing!

Our last safari, for this blog, was in Chobe National Park in Botswana. We stayed in Jollyboys Hostel in Livingstone, Zambia. Not only did we see Victoria Falls from the Zambia side, we walked into Zimbabwe to see the Falls from that side as well.

Our day long trip into Chobe started with being picked up from our hostel for the hour drive along the Zambezi River, a short 10 minute boat ride across to Zimbabwe, walking 20 metres to cross the Botswana border, and then a 45 minute drive to Chobe National Park. Our morning was spent with four other tourists on a small motorized boat that got us very close to the animals. Maybe too close! As we travelled up the Chobe River we saw hippopotamus in the water, a few over here, a few over there. Suddenly there was movement in the water underneath and our guide swiftly scooted the boat ahead — a hippo was trying to topple us over!

We were also able to get really close to the elephants and watch them mud bathe and swim cross the river in front of us… fabulous! According to our guide, the elephants were gathered in such large numbers because the rains hadn’t come yet (though it was the rainy season) and the Chobe River was the only source of water for miles around. If it had rained, the elephants would have been in other parts of the national park and we wouldn’t have seen so many along one stretch of river.

That afternoon we hopped onto a 4×4 for a land safari. Chobe is the perfect setting for the numerous giraffes, zebras and hundreds of elephants we saw. Our guide told us the zebras hadn’t been spotted for weeks… he said we were very lucky and we felt we definitely were.

We also spotted a lion resting under a tree very close by and we stopped to look and take photos. The most amazing feeling came over me when the lion and I locked eyes. It was me who broke away first… though I am sure it had been at least a 30 second stare!

I feel so fortunate to have had these wildlife experiences and many more, too many to contain in one blog post (our 100th by the way).

So, until next time my dear family, friends and fellow travellers, much happiness to you all!

Deborah

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